Brilliant roads to drive in the Lake District and North Lancashire

Low Wood Bay Resort & Spa on the lake Windermere shoreline is a great base for driving enthusiasts looking for the most scenic roads in the Lake District and wider vicinity.

Indeed the spa resort has an extensive history of hosting driving events such as The Flying Scotsman vintage car rally, with the venue used as a pit-stop or stayover point for enthusiastic roadsters to meet and compare classic vehicles.

As early as 1905, Low Wood Bay hotel was welcoming motor cars and some years later even started to offer guests the chance to hire vehicles for excursions and drives from the hotel.

And before buying Low Wood Hotel in the late 1950s, world water speed record holder Norman Buckley, the great uncle of English Lakes Hotels Managing Director Ben Berry, was a test driver for the Blackpool based Swallow Sidecar Company, which later became Jaguar. 

Norman worked for co-founder of the company Sir William Lyons, initially testing their motorbikes before they started to develop fast cars.  Norman tested and raced cars at places like Brooklands, the first purpose-built motor racing circuit.

Norman also drove the first models off the production line for the XK120, XK150 and E-Type Jaguar.  And the power boats he designed and piloted for his water speed records, notably Miss Windermere II and Miss Windermere III, featured Jaguar engines.

 

Norman Buckley on lake Windermere


Low Wood Bay Resort & Spa has also recently hosted the Rolls-Royce & Bentley Enthusiasts Club for a ‘Driving and Treasure Hunt’ day. As part of a relaxing weekend with classic cars, the event offered hotel guests and visitors the chance to view luxury vehicles and chat to proud owners of the famous ‘Rolls’.

So where are some of the best scenic roads to drive in the Lake District and the Trough of Bowland in nearby North Lancashire?

Here our Managing Director and driving enthusiast Ben Berry talks about his favourite routes which allow you to see some of the most spectacular scenery in the area.

 

Hardknott and Wrynose passes with return loops and route options

“There’s nothing like the open road and the Lake District has a whole bunch of spectacular driving routes, loops and passes across the fells.

“One of my favourites is to head out west from Low Wood Bay Resort & Spa and traverse the wonderful Hardknott and Wrynose passes.

“This drive offers a beautiful route link between Little Langdale, near Ambleside, and Eskdale in the western Lake District. The route is known for its steep inclines, hairpin bends, dramatic heights and ever-present sheep.  Not for the faint hearted, it is widely recognised as one of the steepest but also most scenic drives in the country.  Some of the gradients are 1-in-3 and parts of the route are single track with occasional passing points.

 

The Cockley Bridge
The Cockley Bridge

“A defining moment of the drive is Cockley Beck Bridge, which sits roughly halfway along the route. As you approach, the bridge reveals itself side-on, offering a striking profile view set against water and surrounding scenery. It is a genuinely beautiful scene, with the river, the stone bridge and the open landscape all coming together.

“This point also marks the transition from Wrynose to Hardknott. For those driving it for the first time, it is worth noting that if you have just completed Wrynose, the most dramatic section is still to come. Hardknott becomes significantly steeper, tighter and more intense, with sharper turns and more extreme gradients. From this point on, everything becomes more challenging and more exhilarating.

“And there’s history up there too, with the Three Shires Stone, the old boundary line between Cumberland, Lancashire and Westmorland, at the top of Wrynose Pass.  Another worthwhile stop-off point is the Hardknott Roman fort which overlooks the pass and dates back 1,900 years to the reign of the Emperor Hadrian.

“It’s a pleasure to take friends out for a drive on this remote route, especially those from overseas, to show them what the Lake District National Park is all about.

 

The Laal Ratty Railway
The Laal Ratty Railway

“When you reach the west side of the fells, you can make a day of it with a trip to Ravenglass on the coast, perhaps pop in to Muncaster Castle or enjoy some seaside fish and chips.  You could even leave the car for a while and jump aboard the Eskdale to Ravenglass railway.

“It’s always good to make your scenic Lake District drives into a loop to maximise your time and what you see.  After the Hardknott and Wrynose passes, you have two excellent return route options, a southern loop via Corney Fell or a northern loop via Honister or Whinlatter Forest, and both of the latter have the bonus of taking in Dunmail Raise.

 

Corney Fell and return via Newby Bridge

“If real rugged remoteness is more your thing, turn left and head towards Corney Fell.  Corney Fell Road is an off-the-beaten-track driving route in the corner of the Lake District National Park.  It is not as well-known as others but is an exciting climb over the top of Corney Fell and has a distinctly different character.  It’s an exposed and remote drive but well worth the time to explore.

“This route can be paired with a drive back via the Newby Bridge road, offering views of the southern basin of Windermere. This road is wider in sections and an enjoyable contrast to the tighter passes. From here, you can return towards Wild Boar Estate.

 

Returning from Eskdale via Whinlatter or Honister passes

“For the northern loop alternative option, turn right and head north, where you can either take the more direct route via Whinlatter Pass for a quicker and easier return, or continue on to Honister Pass.

“I often come back through Whinlatter Forest before dropping down into Keswick.  From there, further options to explore can include completing the loop by coming back down to Windermere on the A591 via Thirlmere.

 

A car descending the winding road down Honister Pass
Descending Honister Pass

“But perhaps the better option is to take the Honister pass right through the middle of the National Park. It’s an additional dramatic drive on the steep, narrow B5289 which connects Buttermere and Borrowdale.

“The road passes the historic Honister Slate Mine and features some challenging sections with precarious passing places. This route also combines Dunmail Raise on the return, creating a full circular journey.

 

Dunmail Raise

“The shorter road trip up to Dunmail Raise from Grasmere through to the Thirlmere Valley is another classic Lake District driving experience.  It’s by no means the highest pass but offers some amazing scenery, flanked by Helvellyn and Seat Sandal to the east and Steel Fell to the west.

“Dunmail Raise offers a faster, wider stretch of road with opportunities to overtake. At the summit, look out for the cairn known as Old King Dunmail, although it can be difficult to spot when travelling north to south. The surrounding scenery is striking, particularly as you pass by Thirlmere before getting to Dunmail Raise.”

 

Kirkstone Pass from Ambleside up to Penrith

“Another lovely drive from Low Wood Bay and Windermere is over the Kirkstone Pass on the A592 heading North to Penrith.  This route takes you over the highest vehicular road pass in the Lake District.

“Nicknamed ‘The Struggle’ by locals - from the Ambleside direction at any rate - the Kirkstone Pass is notable for its dramatic scenery and steep gradients.  But you can always stop for refreshment at the Kirkstone Pass Inn at the summit – passengers that is, not drivers! – before continuing northward and skirting the beautiful shoreline of Ullswater.

 

Two vintage cars ascend the struggle road from Ambleside
Ascending 'The Struggle'

“For Kirkstone Pass, begin by taking ‘The Struggle’ from Ambleside. Approach by heading north from Low Wood Bay Resort & Spa into Ambleside, then follow the narrow, winding lane upwards. The Struggle connects to the top of Kirkstone Pass and is a tighter, more technical climb to the main pass itself.

“Once you get to Ullswater, just after Glenridding, you will find a large lay-by called ‘Stybarrow crag’ on the left. There are bus stops here and convenient parking. This is one of the best accessible wild swimming spots in the Lake District, with a small beach and easy access to the water. It’s my second favourite place to swim in the Lake District, after Low Wood Bay of course!

“This route can be extended into a full day’s drive by continuing on towards Penrith and then onto Hartside Pass (see below).

“On the return journey, avoid descending via The Struggle. Instead, continue down the main Kirkstone Pass, which will bring you out at Troutbeck Bridge.

 

Hartside Pass

“To the North East and outside of the Lake District National Park is Hartside Pass, an excellent alternative route if you are coming to the Lake District from Newcastle upon Tyne or Northumberland.  It’s all too easy to stay on the main east to west A69 arterial route to the M6, but cutting up into the hills on the A686, just after Hexham, gives you an early appetiser of what you will see in the Lake District.

“Within the North Pennines Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, the 1,900 foot summit of Hartside Pass offers amazing views westwards, from the Solway Firth and Scotland to the silhouetted shapes of Helvellyn, Great Gable and Skiddaw.

“Hartside Pass connects naturally with the Kirkstone Pass route too. From the western end near Penrith, the road climbs towards Alston, offering sweeping bends and open views.

“Alston serves as either a mid-point or a place to turn around and return. If continuing, you’ll carry on towards Hexham on a very cool road with all manner of switchbacks and turns.

 

Driving in North Lancashire - Forest of Bowland AONB

The Trough of Bowland is one of my favourite drives in the world, not just the region. It is quieter than many of the Lake District passes, with fewer vehicles, and with wider, albeit still single track, roads.

Lancaster House Hotel is the perfect base for a drive in the Forest of Bowland Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.  It’s wonderful to head out from the hotel along the Preston Lancaster road through Galgate, cross under the M6 on Stoney Lane and then follow the Trough Road skirting along the northern edge of the Forest of Bowland national landscape.

 

Two cyclists descending a hill in the Trough of Bowland in Lancashire
The Trough of Bowland in Lancashire

“The route offers flowing elevation changes, visible rivers and opportunities to enjoy the drive without the intensity of tighter passes. It is easier to pass slower traffic here, making it a more relaxed yet equally rewarding experience.  It’s a genuine ‘stand-out’ drive and I always like to take a new car out to do this road!

“These rugged North Lancashire roads and scenic rural vistas were a feature of the BBC comedy series The Trip with Rob Brydon and Steve Coogan.

 

Advice for driving the Lake District roads and passes

Check the weather

“Driving in the Lake District requires care and awareness and there are some important things to remember about these rural roads and passes over the fells.  Always check weather conditions and the current state of roads and passes.  Many of the latter close in adverse weather and if you see snow, turn around and don’t go up the passes.

Look out for both domestic and wild animals

“Sheep are frequently found on rural roads here, often sitting or lying down, particularly in low light conditions.  Pheasants are also common seasonally on certain roads like Hartside Pass - if you see one, there will likely be more.  Deer are an increasing sight too, and if one runs in front of you, another is very likely to follow.  So do slow down if you see one bound across the road, as they are herd animals.

Vehicle choice, condition and driving style

“You also need to think about your own vehicle and its suitability.  For example, a Ferrari is too wide and too low slung to go over Hardknott Pass without incident or damage!

“More generally, use low gears on heavy gradients, ensure your clutch and brakes are in good working order and anticipate having to reverse back to passing places to give way to oncoming vehicles when necessary.  Many roads are narrow with limited passing places, so patience is essential. An early start, or going on a trip outside of the main season can enhance your experience.

Good planning and curiosity

“There’s never enough time to explore everything, so take your time and plan a route that lets you stop and take in the scenery.  You could even switch off the satnav and simply cruise around the National Park, but don’t be fooled if it sometimes feels like you’re heading off in a different direction to your ultimate destination.  That’s the beauty of these winding hidden roads through the heart of the Lake District National Park!”

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